Height of Nuptse Mountain / Peak is 7861meters (25790 feet)
Nuptse shares in the glory of the Everest Massif and is the southern border of the Western Cwm. Viewed from the Thangboche Monastery it appears as a massive wall guarding the approach to Everest. It is joined on the right by Lhotse . Just southwest of Mount Everest . The Tibetan name, Nup-tse, means west-peak.
This spring, The North Face is supporting an expedition to climb a new route on the North Face of Nuptse. The North Face athletes, Damian and Willie Benegas have been viewing a new line there while guiding on neighboring Mt Everest. This route is an extremely steep ice and rock mixed climb called "The Snake". Nuptse is situated in the Khumbu Himal just southwest of Mount Everest. The name Nup-tse is Tibetan and means west-peak, as it is the western part of the Lhotse-Nuptse-massif. The main ridge, which is separated from Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle, is crowned by 7 peaks and goes west-northwest until its steep west-face drops down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. Everest News will be covering their progress. Follow along with the brothers as they attempt to climb this new route!
Part of the Lhotse-Nuptse-massif, the main ridge is joined to Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle made up of 7 peaks and goes west-northwest. Its steep west-face drops down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. The south-face of Nuptse is 2500m high and 5 kilometers wide. The north side is above the Western-Cwm valley with the upper part of the Khumbu-glacier above its famous icefall. The main summit Nuptse I (7861m) was first sumited by a British expedition on the north-ridge (Scott-route) on May 16, 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi. Notably Sir Chris Bonington was also a member of the FA expedition. Itinerary
Day 1: Meet at Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel
Day 2: Sight-seeing of Kathmandu: Full day's sightseeing in Kathmandu valley includes the Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) & the biggest Buddhist Stupa at Boudhanath. Also visit Monkey Temple the Swyambhunath (2000 years old temple) and visit Patan city of fine arts. Return to the hotel.
Day 3: Official preparation for climbing.
Day 4: Flight from KTM - Lukla. Trek to Phakding (2,652m).
Day 5: Phakding to Namche (3,440m)- Beginning with a slight climb to Jhorsalle, the trail passes a waterfall. All day, we pass villages interspersed with magnificent forest- rhododendron, magniolia trees and giant firs. And on the way to walking you will be rewarded (weather permitting) your first glimpse of Kusum Kanggru (6369m) Thamserku (6608m) Everest (8848m) and Nuptse (7879 m). A steep climb up to the beautiful village of Namche bazaar (3440m).
Day 6: Acclimatization day in Namche. Acclimatization is most important before proceeding to a higher elevation. It is therefore recommended that you take a short days hike to Thame, Khunde or Khumjung or relax and explore the sherpa culture of Namche.
Day 7: Namche to Tengboche (3,867m): after walking one hour you arrive in phungithanga from there the trail climbs through forests where you can spot musk deer. Tengboche sits on a saddle at 3870m in a clearing surrounded by dwarf fires and rododendroms. Kwongde (6187m) Tawache(6542m) Everest (8848m) Nuptse (7855m) Lhotse (8618m) Amadablam (6856m) Thamserku (6608m) provide and inspiring panorama of Himalayan giants. We visit the Bhuddist Monastry at Tengboche, the largest in Khumbu region.
Day 8: Tengboche to Pheriche: Beyond Tengboche the altitude really starts to tell. The trail droops down to Dingboche, crosses the Imja Khola and climbs past superb mani stones ( carved with the Tibetan Buddhist chant om mani padme hum) to Pangboche at 3860m The gompa here is worth visiting. Then the trail start climbs to Pheriche 4240m. Where there is a medical facility, which gives lectures everyday on Altitude Sickness.
Day 9: Another acclimatization day, again walking up and then coming back down is better than just resting in high altitude, you can make a day trip to Nangkartshang Gompa or up the hill to look down onto Dingboche, and Either walk offers good views.
Day 10: Pheriche to Lobuche - The trail climbs to Phalang karpo at 4340m then Duglha at 4620m,From Dughla the trail ascends the broad, gently slopping valley and climb steeply in to the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier then left in to the memorial area Chukpilhara, before reaching the Lobuche at 4930m
Day 11: Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp overnight in camp
Day 12: Base Camp Preparation overnight in camp
Day 13-44: Climbing Period Mt. Nuptse.
Day 45: Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 46 : Trek down to Pheriche overnight in lodge
Day 47: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar overnight in lodge
Day 48: Namche Bazaar to Lukla, overnight in lodge
Day 49: Flight from Lukla - KTM, transfer to hotel
Day 50 : Kathmandu free day, evening culture show with Nepali dinner, hotel
Day 51 : Final departure, transfer to airport Cost Includes:
- Mt. Nuptse climbing permit fee.
- 5 (five) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis
- Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load
- Liaison officer wages & allowances
- One head Sardar
- Cooks and Kitchen boys.
- Climbing Sherpa (01 Sherpa between 02 clients)
- Tent at Base camp with mattress
- Dinning tent at BC with heater
- All necessary kitchen gears
- High quality high Altitude tents.
- All necessary climbing hardware gears
- Meals at Base camp & high altitude
- Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
- EPI gas with burner for high camps
- Walkie-talkie set with radio base
- Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 4)
- Solar panel/generator at base camp for recharging
- Gamow/PAC bag at base camp for medical propose
- Oxygen with mask set for medical purpose
- Daily wages, equipment bonus of local staff
- Insurance of local team members
- Celebration meal in Kathmandu
- Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu
- PERSONAL equipment for climbing
- Personal Insurance of climber
- Climbing food, Gas & stove.
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
- Walki Takie permit
- Radio Permit
- Satellite phone permit.
- Oxygen & regulator.
- Climbing Sherpa,
- Personal expenses etc.
This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for Nuptse. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by Eric Simonson, the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.
Footwear:Running shoes and/or sport sandals: For travel & easy walking.
Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a vibram sole.
Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended (Scarpa, La Sportiva).
Down or synthetic camp booties: Any brand with thick foam soles.
Lightweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Midweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Clothing:Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Midweight long underwear tops: Zip T- neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia Capilene, North Face, Mountain Hardware)
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op.
Midweight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear.
Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, REI)
Jacket synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
Down insulated jacket, expedition weight w/ hood: (Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, North Face).
Down pants: Expedition quality, (Mountain Hardware)
Waterproo /breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have hood, pants must have full-length side zips (Mountain Hardware, North Face).
Head & Hand GearLiner gloves: Lightweight Synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
Insulated climbing gloves: such as Black Diamond Guide
Gore-Tex mittens w/ liners: Expedition Weight, (Outdoor Research)
. Bandanna: Three or four traditional cotton style
Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene Balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
AccessoriesSunglasses #1: One pair high quality 100% UV 100%IR, for travel and lower elevations.
Sunglasses #2: For high altitude. One pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction sunglasses. Side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not required, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum coverage of the eyes to protect them from bright light on snow. (Julbo)
Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
Gaiters w/ reinforced lowers: (Outdoor Research)
Headlamp w/ spare bulb: (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
Climbing EquipmentIce axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people. Shaft should be straight, not curved. (Grivel or Black Diamond) You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one.
Extra ice tool: Short technical tool is OK, hammer head is preferable.
Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel or Black Diamond)
Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off, lightweight, fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners)
Perlon cord: Also known as accessory cord in some gear shops. 20 feet of 6mm.
Ascenders: One Pair (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Camping GearBackpack: 5000 cubic inches or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s Rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (North Face, Wildthings, Osprey)
Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and while touring in cities. (Lowe Alpine Attack Summit)
Sleeping bag: Expedition Quality rated to at least minus 20 F. (North Face, Mountain Hardwear) Second Sleeping Bag: Once high camps are established you will not want to carry your sleeping bag back and forth. Base camp bag does not need to be a warm as your expedition bag rating.
Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
Water bottles: Two 1-quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)
Lightweight steel thermal bottle: One liter size. (Nissan, Outdoor Research)
Pee bottle: One 1 quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)
Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
Pack towel: Small or Medium size (PackTowl). Do not bring “terrycloth”, Bandanas work in a pinch.
Trekking poles: (Leki, Black Diamond,) Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten.
Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: Lightweight metal is O.K.
Medical & PersonalSunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (L’Oreal)
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
Toiletry kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small).
First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor (antibiotics, diamox, sleep aids).
Zip-loc bags: Always useful.
Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
Travel ItemsExpedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches. Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”).
Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “Carry On”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling.
Lightweight long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable.
Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: One pair
Lightweight pants: One pair
City clothes for Kathmandu and Bangkok: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you fly through Bangkok, it is hot and tropical.
Small padlocks: For locking duffel bag(s).
Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non - rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
Memory cards and / or Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. You will take lots of photos! nuptse climbing, nuptse mountain expedition, expedition in nuptse north face, climbing of nuptse himal, mt. nuptse climbing, nuptse peak climbing, nepal nuptse expedition, nuptse expedition.