Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. Actually Ama Dablam means "The mother mountain" so it's also regarded as mother mountain and female. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000 foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. And from the summit of Amadablam mountain all round mountains of Khumbu region and both way valley's can be viewed, which is a very interesting and exciting moment.
On the summit there is space for about one tent so there will be no problems to stay on the summit from 1/2 to 1 hour to enjoy the views and sunshine from the summit of Ama Dablam. Actually 15 to 25 days climbing period would be very nice for this mountain because we will have to wait the weather conditions also sometimes for the climbing and enjoy the view from the summit.
This mountain located at Solu-Khumbu District Nepal. The best climbing seasons for Mt. Ama Dablam are in April, May (pre-monsoon) and late September, October. Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding. Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding.
Early in the morning you will be driven from hotel to Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular flight you will land to Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and you walk for about two and a half to three hours. While trekking you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and a half hours. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries on the way of trekking to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Namche is the main trading village in the Khumbu region and holds a busy Saturday market. There is set a meeting place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have reached there by crossing the glaciated Nangpa La.
Day 05: Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by late Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town.
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) and it takes almost 5 hours.
Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche. From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. Now, you have a glimpse of first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Although exhausting due to the zigzag path, the trek has numerous attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds chirping and superb mountain scenery making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.
Day 07: Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 08-24: Climbing period for Ama Dablam. Stay overnight at camp. Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves us three to four hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.
Base Camp To Camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and a half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now, you are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform ,this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route we follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however,the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Day 25: Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 26: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) which takes about four hours. Stay overnight at lodge.
The trail descends steeply for early one and a half hours. After that, the path has small ups and downs to Phakding through Monjo. .
Day 27: Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) which takes about three hours. Stay overnight at lodge.
Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla.
Day 28: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 29: Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 30: Fly out from Kathmandu.
Note: It is possible to combine with some other activities such as white water rafting and wildlife safari. The itinerary can be customized according to your duration of holiday. Cost Includes:
- Amadablam Peak permit, all govt. taxes & garbage deposit.
- 4 (four) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
- Round trip airfare and domestic airport taxes
- Custom clearances, excess baggage's and airport taxes
- Liaison officer
- One head Sardar/Guide
- Cook(s) and kitchen boy(s)
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa per two clients).
- Necessary number of porters
- All necessary climbing hardware gears
- All base camp meals + high altitude food (Back pack brand)
- All necessary camping and kitchen gears
- High quality tents for both base camp and high camps
- Gamov bag for medical propose
- Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose
- Walkie-talkie set with radio base
- Necessary EPI gas with burner
- North face down jacket for -20 degree.
- Solar panel with batteries/ generator with fuel for power supply
- Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
- All airport/hotel transfers.
- City sightseeing before the expedition
- Personal Nature Expense
- Travel insurance
- International air fare to and from Nepal.
- Nepal entry visa fee
- Disembarkation Airport Tax in Nepal
- Trekking EquipmentsTips for guide, porters, driver
- Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue operation.
This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for Ama Dablam . Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by Eric Simonson, the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.
Footwear:Running shoes and/or sport sandals: For travel & easy walking.
Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a vibram sole.
Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended (Scarpa, La Sportiva).
Down or synthetic camp booties: Any brand with thick foam soles.
Lightweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Midweight socks: Two to three pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Clothing:Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Midweight long underwear tops: Zip T- neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia Capilene, North Face, Mountain Hardware)
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op.
Midweight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear.
Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, REI)
Jacket synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
Down insulated jacket, expedition weight w/ hood: (Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, North Face).
Down pants: Expedition quality, (Mountain Hardware)
Waterproo /breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have hood, pants must have full-length side zips (Mountain Hardware, North Face).
Head & Hand GearLiner gloves: Lightweight Synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
Insulated climbing gloves: such as Black Diamond Guide
Gore-Tex mittens w/ liners: Expedition Weight, (Outdoor Research)
. Bandanna: Three or four traditional cotton style
Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene Balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
AccessoriesSunglasses #1: One pair high quality 100% UV 100%IR, for travel and lower elevations.
Sunglasses #2: For high altitude. One pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction sunglasses. Side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not required, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum coverage of the eyes to protect them from bright light on snow. (Julbo)
Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
Gaiters w/ reinforced lowers: (Outdoor Research)
Headlamp w/ spare bulb: (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
Climbing EquipmentIce axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people. Shaft should be straight, not curved. (Grivel or Black Diamond) You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one.
Extra ice tool: Short technical tool is OK, hammer head is preferable.
Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel or Black Diamond)
Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off, lightweight, fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners)
Perlon cord: Also known as accessory cord in some gear shops. 20 feet of 6mm.
Ascenders: One Pair (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Camping GearBackpack: 5000 cubic inches or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s Rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (North Face, Wildthings, Osprey)
Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and while touring in cities. (Lowe Alpine Attack Summit)
Sleeping bag: Expedition Quality rated to at least minus 20 F. (North Face, Mountain Hardwear) Second Sleeping Bag: Once high camps are established you will not want to carry your sleeping bag back and forth. Base camp bag does not need to be a warm as your expedition bag rating.
Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
Water bottles: Two 1-quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)
Lightweight steel thermal bottle: One liter size. (Nissan, Outdoor Research)
Pee bottle: One 1 quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)
Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
Pack towel: Small or Medium size (PackTowl). Do not bring “terrycloth”, Bandanas work in a pinch.
Trekking poles: (Leki, Black Diamond,) Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten.
Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: Lightweight metal is O.K.
Medical & PersonalSunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (L’Oreal)
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
Toiletry kit: Toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small).
First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor (antibiotics, diamox, sleep aids).
Zip-loc bags: Always useful.
Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
Travel ItemsExpedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches. Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”).
Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “Carry On”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling.
Lightweight long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable.
Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: One pair
Lightweight pants: One pair
City clothes for Kathmandu and Bangkok: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you fly through Bangkok, it is hot and tropical.
Small padlocks: For locking duffel bag(s).
Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non - rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
Memory cards and / or Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. You will take lots of photos! Amadablam Expedition, expedition to amadablam, nepal amadablam, expedition in amadablam, nepal expedition amadabalam, amadablam expedition summit, summit of amadablam mountain.