Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is a mountain in the Himalayas of eastern Nepal. The peak was named Island Peak in 1951 by Eric Shipton's party since it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. The peak was later renamed in 1983 to Imja Tse but Island Peak remains the popular choice. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar.
Imja Tse (Island peak) was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a training exercise in preparation for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay was one of the members of this first ascent team. Imja Tse is one of the most popular trekking peaks given its difficulty (alpine PD+) and accessibility especially when supported by a Nepalese climbing guide.
After arriving, you will have a day to explore the exotic city of Kathmandu before flying into the remote mountain town of Lukla where you begin your trek into the Khumbu region of the Himalayas. Situated at an elevation of 9,350 feet, the views of the Himalayan Mountains from Lukla on a clear day are breathtaking. Once there, we follow an ancient route that journeys through tiny villages, across high mountain passes, and through remote valleys. Along the way, we visit Buddhist monasteries and begin to appreciate the unique mountain culture found in the Himalayan foothills. The views grow more spectacular as we venture up the Dudh Kosi River to Namche Bazaar - the gateway to the Khumbu region at 11,300 feet. We spend a night next to the Thyangboche monastery (12,887 feet), where you are rewarded with spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest, and Lhotse.
A rewarding hike leads to the summit of 18,450 foot Kala Pattar and provides a truly spectacular panorama of Sagarmatha (Mt Everest), the Mother Goddess of the World (29,028 feet), and Lhotse (27,560 feet). We then spend about two nights at Everest Base camp with the Everest climbing expeditions from around the world.
Climbing Route of Imja Tse
To climb Island Peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 metres (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 metres (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit. Trip Facts:
Elevation: 6,189 metres (20,305 feet)
Location: Khumbu, Nepal
Range: Khumbu Himal
Coordinates: 27?55?21?N, 86?56?10?E
First Ascent: 1953 by a British team
Easiest Route: scramble/glacier/ice climb Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Sight seeing in kathmandu Valley.
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding. Early in the morning you will be driven from hotel to Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular flight you will land to Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and you walk for about 2 and half to 3 hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and a half hours. This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche Bazaar and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, Tawache peak. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazar.
Day 05:Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche Bazaar for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazar.
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) and it takes almost 5 hours. From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Koshi. Now, you have a glimpse of first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Although exhausting due to the zigzag path, the trek has numerous attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds chirping and superb mountain scenery making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche.
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.) which takes about 4 and a half hours to 5 hours. You gradually descend through a forest, cross the Imja Khola and climb steadily up to the village of Pangboche. As you gradually ascend, you find thick forests as the trail is full of thorny and juniper bushes. A further two and a half hour’s walk brings us to Dingboche. Stay overnight at lodge in Dingboche.
Day 08: Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization
Day 09: Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.) which it takes about 2 and a half hours. The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestock’s in summer time. Stay overnight at lodge in Chhuking.
Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m) which it takes about three hours. You trek through gradual ascent path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and many others. Camp for the night.
Day 11 - 12 : Climb to Island Peak(6189m.)Crossing the gully above the camp the trail makes a climb for another hour to a narrow ridge, leading on to the glacier. Here, it is time to rope up and put on our crampons as the most interesting part of the climb begins with the glacier crossing. This is followed by the steep snow slope that leads onto the summit ridge. This ridge is wonderfully airy and on reaching the summit we have stunning close-up views of the south face of Lhotse looming over us whilst in the other direction, there are more dramatic mountain views. We descend along the same route, down to base camp.
Day 13 : Trek from Island Peak Base Camp to Chhukung which takes about three hours. Stay overnight at lodge in Chhukung.
Day 14: Trek from Chhukung to Pangboche (3985m.) After descending along the trail to Chhukung, we continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then another couple of hours to the lovely village of Pangboche where we'll camp for the night.
Day 15: Trek from Pangboche to Khumjung (3790m.) and it takes about six hours. In the beginning you trek gradual down path and after crossing Phortse Tenga you trek through steep ascent path up to Mongla and then gradual down to Khumjung. Stay overnight at lodge in Khumjung.
Day 16: Trek Khumjung to Monjo which takes about five hours. All the way you walk downwards. En route, you pass Namche Bazaar. Stay overnight at lodge in Monjo.
Day 17: Trek from Monjo to Lukla (2800m) and it takes about 3 hours. Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with the Sherpa guides and porters, where you can sample some chhang, try Sherpa dancing and look back on a memorable trekking experience. Stay overnight at lodge in Lukla.
Day 18: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu which takes about 35 minutes.
Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu. Service Includes
- Conservation/national park fees and all govt. taxes
- Climbing peak permit of Island Peak
- Hotel in Kathmandu (***)on twin sharing bed and breakfast basis
- Airport Pick & Drop.
- An Experience head Sardar/Guide
- Trained Cook and Kitchen boy(s)
- Required number of porters
- Accommodation at tented camp.
- High quality tents two men tent with sleeping mattress (All climbing gears if any requirements.)
- Group dinning tents with table and chairs
- Kitchen tents and Toilet tent
- EPI gas with stove for high camp
- All meals quality and hygienic (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- All hot drinks (tea, coffee, hot chocolate, juice)
- Available high altitude food
- All necessary Climbing hardware gears including Climbing ropes
- Complete first aid kits
- Oxygen with mask and regulator for emergency/medical purpose
- Insurance of all local team members
- Equipment for porters
- Half day world heritage sites tour
- Cultural celebration meal (Nepalese finest cuisine)
- PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
- Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
- Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
- Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
- Personal expenses
- Bar Bills & beverage
- Gratitude (tip) for staff
Running shoes: For travel and easy walking
Sport sandal: That can be worn with socks. (Teva, Chaco)
Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a Vibram sole.
Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended. (Vasque, Koflach, Scarpa)
Booties: Synthetic or down isulation. Any brand with thick foam soles.
Lightweight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Mid-weight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight long underwear tops: Zip-T neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear. (Patagonia Capilene)
Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, or any brand of PowerDry)
Jacket, synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardwear Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
Down insulated jacket: Expedition weight with a hood. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Waterproof breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have a hood, pants must have full-length side zips. (Arc'Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Head & Hand Gear:
Liner gloves: Lightweight synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
Gore-Tex Mittens w/ pile liners: Expedition weight liner for the first pair, second pair should have a light weight pile liner. (Outdoor Research)
Bandana: Two to three traditional cotton style.
Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
Sunglasses #1: For high altitude. 1 pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction, side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not recommended, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.
Sunglasses #2: One pair high quality 100%UV and 100%IR, for lower elevations, also as a backup. It is important to have a spare pair of sunglasses.
Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
Gaiters w/reinforced lowers: Short, simple gaiters are best, such as Outdoor Research's Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.
Headlamp w/spare bulb: (Petzl, Black Diamond)
Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people but it does depend on your height. Shaft should be straight, not curved. You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one. (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off. It should be lightweight and fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners) (Black Diamond, Petzl, Clog)
Prussik cord: 20 feet of 6mm perlon which is also known as static accessory cord.(don’t cut it, bring in one piece)
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Backpack: 5000 cubic inches (80 liters) or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (Gregory, North Face, Dana, Arc’Teryx)
Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and for while touring in cities. (Black Diamond, Lowe)
Sleeping bag: Expedition quality rated to at least minus 20F (-25C) ((Marmot, North Face, Moonstone)
Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
Water bottles: Two 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth. (Nalgene, Lexan)
Lightweight steel thermal bottle: (Zojirushi, Nissan, Outdoor Research)
Pee bottle: One 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene, Lexan)
Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
Pack towel: Small or medium size. Do not bring “terrycloth”, bandanas work in a pinch. (PackTowl)
Trekking poles: Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten. (Leki, Black Diamond)
Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: lightweight metal is ok. (MSR)
Medical & Personal:
Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
Toiletry kit: toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small)
First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor. (antibiotics, Diamox, sleep aids)
Zip-loc bags: Always useful
Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
Water purification tablets: Such as Potable Aqua brand iodine tablets. You will be given plenty of purified water during your trek and climb, but one bottle of backup purification tablets is always a good idea for your travels. They are especially useful in hotels on you way to Nepal. You should not drink untreated tap water anywhere in Asia and bottled water in some rare cases might not be available.
Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches (130+ liter). Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”)
Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry-on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “carry-on”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling. (Outdoor Research)
Long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable
Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: 1 pair (any brand of Supplex short)
Lightweight pants: One pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pant)
City clothes for Kathmandu and Bangkok: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you stay in Bangkok it is hot and ropical.
Small padlocks: for locking duffel bag(s)
Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non-rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. Be sure to keep in your carry-on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected at airports. If you bring a digital camera, bring extra media storage cards.