Lobuche Peak Climbing which is situated close to Khumbu Glacier in Everest Region, offers an attractive climb summit with a variety of existing routes and wide scope for new lines. Lobuche Peak is one of the popular trekking peaks in the Himalayan country of Nepal. The peak is an attractive summit and offers several triails for climbing.
Lobuje peak has two summits, East and West with heights of 6119m and 6145m respectively. A continuous ridge connects them, but it is long and there is a considerable height loss and gain. The East Peak is recognized as a trekking peak, whereas the West is known as an Expedition Peak. Lobuje being an attractive mountain offers various existing routes and also the potential for new ones. The dark triangle of the rocky east face rises over the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south ridge. Lobuje East is reached by descending a marked notch and then climbing steep snowy slopes to the top.
From the summit, we have a great view of Mt. Everest, Amadablam etc., and a 360 degree Himalayan panorama that include all important peaks in the Khumbu Valley. This Lobuche peak climbing is a beautiful climb with some technical challenges.
On most occasions, the mountain is climbed on the summit ridge only as far as a subsidiary snow summit (or false peak), south–east of the true peak and before the notch. Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first ascent of Lobuje East on 25 April 1984 although it is possible that others had reached the summit before but did not record their climbs. To climb Lobuje we follow the Everest base camp route to Gorak Shep, continuing to Kala Pattar, at 5545m, because this offers great views of Everest and good acclimatization. It is also possible to follow the Gokyo valley and to cross the Chola pass, a route which is also good for acclimatisation. Whichever route we take us shall place a Base Camp at Dzongla and a high camp at 5300m either at a lake or a little higher near a pass. This higher camp has a better view of the peak as well as of Everest, Lhotse, Nupse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, khangtenga and Tawache. Itinerary
Day 1- Arrive Kathmandu Nepal - Briefing
As soon as you just arrive in KTM air port, our air port representative will pick up you to Hotel. The afternoon offers an opportunity to relax in the hotel & your group leader or the Arun person will do the complete trip briefing. More over sort out any gear requirements, and have the chance to let us know your hopes and expectations for the trip.
Day 2- Cultural tour & sort gear
The main activity for the day is a sightseeing tour with a guide. This is a chance to see the Kathmandu Valley up close and personal ? sight seen includes the following world heritage places Boudha Nath stupa (Buddhist temple), Pashupati Nath temple (Hindus Temple) & Monkey Temple. There will also be an opportunity to look around the shops of Kathmandu's centre, Thamel before dinner in one of Kathmandu's many restaurants. Final preparation of equipment for the trek and climb.
Day 3- Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding (2 hours)
After an early start, the flight to Lukla is highly spectacular. We fly east over Nepal's terrai and middle hills right along and into the Himalayas to land among the mountains. This part of the Solu Khumbu region is occupied by mainly Rai and Tamang families who farm corn, fruit and vegies on terraces cut into and built on the valley walls, and graze goats on the mountain pastures. Already we're way out of our everyday experience and it's only the first day on the track! After a short refreshment break in this busy town, we head north along the Dudh Kosi valley, dropping slowly toward the river at Ghat and then on to our first night in a lodge.
Day 4- Trek to Namche (6 hours)
We'll take these first few days quite easy, giving our bodies the chance to acclimatise while we enjoy this more verdant part of the Nepalese countryside. The Everest region is dominated by Buddhist people, so mani walls and prayer flags mark the villages and holy places. Typically members of many families enter a gompa (Buddhist monastery) for some period of their lives. Around Ghat and Phakding Sherpa people farm potatoes and other vegetables and keep buffalos and dzopko (a yak hybrid) for milk and load carrying. At Jorsale we enter Sargarmatha National Park, bounded by steep walls and high ranges all the way around. The national park gate is the only easy entrance to the valley, and here we'll check in with the Park Rangers before continuing up the valley to the junction of the Bhote Kosi ('border river') coming south from the border regions and the Dudh Kosi ('milk river') running west, down from Everest and head slowly up through pine forest to the Sherpa capital call Namche bazar.
Day 5- Rest/acclimatize day in Namche
We will spend a couple of nights in Namche Bazaar, soaking up the sights of this Sherpa town and allowing our body chemistry to adjust to the decreased oxygen of three and a half thousand meters. You might like to visit the Sherpa Museum, National Park Visitor Centre or Sargarmatha Pollution Control Committee headquarters, or the Tibetan markets and Sherpa shops scattered around Namche. Namche is also our last chance to catch up on email and change your travellers' cheques when you decide you really do need one of those lovely soft Tibetan carpets.
Day 6- Trek to Pangboche via Thangboche monastery (5 hours)
From Namche the well-worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Now we get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and past numerous teashops, we cross the Dudh Kosi River(Milk Khola) and make a steep climb to Thangboche, home of an impressive re-built monastery. You can have unforgettable sight seen in to Tnagbouche monastery.
Day 7- Trek to Dingboche (4 hours)
An easy days walk along the Dudh Kosi as we make our way up the valley with views of Pumori for the first time. We make camp for the first time in tents next to the village, a good chance to catch up on some reading and let our bodies acclimatise.
Day 8- Rest Day in Dingboche with trek up Dingboche Ri 5000m (2 hours side trip)
From Dingboche Ri we will be able to see Mt Makalu to the east, which at 8,481m is the 5th highest peak in the world. Here we can take the more rest for adjusting with the Himalayan environment before to climb the peak.
Day 9- Trek to Chhukung (3 hours)
A short days trek up the valley to the East gets us close enough to see Island peak another of the famous trekking peaks of Nepal. This is the critical zone for acclimatization 4000m-5000m, where we must bide our time and let our bodies adjust slowly to maximize our summit success.
Day 10- Climb Chhukung Ri 5600m and trek to Pokhalde BC (5 hours)
We will take the opportunity of an acclimatization climb to Chhukung Ri 5,600m, which offers views of the whole valley, especially the very impressive South Face of Lhotse which towers some 4000m vertical meters from the valley floor. We sometimes see families of kongma (Himalayan partridges) and picas (a bit like short eared rabbits) in this area. After a re fuelling stop, we'll head down valley for an hour or so before crossing the moraine-covered glacier on a path that weaves around lakes and boulders, ice walls then up onto a secluded grassy pasture which is the base camp for Mt Pokhalde. Impressive views of the North Ridge of Ama Dablam dominate the campsite.
Day 11- Cross Kongma La 5600m, trek Lobuje East BC (8 hours)
With a packed lunch and an early start we trek up and over the Kongma La and drop down into the Everest-Khumbu Valley proper. A tough days walk but with rewarding views and importantly a great view to see Mt Lobuje East our objective of the expedition. The left hand sky line of Lobuje East is the south ridge the route we will follow to the summit
Day 12- Trek to Kala Pattar/ Everest BC view point return (8 hours)
We'll set off fairly early for our ascent of the 'black rock' Kala Pattar 5555m, and down to Everest Base Camp from which Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norge Sherpa climbed Everest in 1953. Look for the pretty technical peak (Pumori) ? a high point on its southwest ridge is our ultimate target, Kala Pattar! Gorak Shep is the highest village in the region (if not the world) at 5050m, and we'll likely see many other trekkers who are not looking quite as well as we'll feel after our steady acclimatization program. A bit of a break back in Gorak Shep will refresh you for the descent down the Khumbu Valley to Lobuje BC. Towering to the west of this little settlement is Lobuje East ? the trekking peak we aim to climb, for those who've developed a taste for the mountains.
Day 13- Rest day
Rest day and/or spare day for bad weather and other travel delays, the expedition leader and his Sherpa team also use this day to set up the fixed ropes on the mountain ready for out ascent, so as to ensure our safety and speedy ascent.
Day 14- Climb to High Camp on Lobuje East (4 hours)
Well have a relatively easy day moving up to High Camp at 5600m, where we set up out tents and make ready out ropes, crampons and ice axes for an early morning start to the summit. The view of Everest and Nupste from here is amazing, a stunning but cold place - we are now really up there in the Himalayas!
Summit of Lobuje East 6,119m with Mt Everest behind
Day 15- Summit Lobuje East 6119m return to BC (10 hours)
We make our way up the South Ridge which is a technically straight forward and objectively safe route, there are no ice cliffs or rocks to fall on us. With our experienced team of Sherpas secure ropes to the peak to ensure the teams safety. Use of crampons, ice axe, ascenders (as taught on the training weekend) plus abseiling will be needed to summit this Himalayan peak.
Day 16- Trek to Pangboche (6 hours)
it is time to turn for home and head down valley. There is a magical part of the trail that we will pass today where cairns and memorials have been erected in memory of climbers who have not returned for their attempts on Everest. The small cairns mimic the towering mountains behind and make for one of the most atmospheric spots in the Himalayas. It's nice to take the time to let it soak in before continuing down past to Pheriche. We can spent our over night in Pangbouche.
Day 17- Trek to Namche (6 hours)
Yak pastures and secluded rhododendron forests line the way to the most famous monastery in Nepal ? Thangboche. The settlement is right on top of a ridge (not too practical for water supplies) with views both up the valley to Everest and down toward Namche. By all means, stop and look around the monastery ? the beautiful painting or thankas inside are rich and beautiful and tell stories of Buddhist legend. The descent from here is through thick forest on good trails (which sometimes split and converge like a braided stream) to Phunki Tenga, across the river and gently up on pine-lined tracks to Namche.
Day 18- Trek to Lukla (8 hours)
Our last trekking day descends on good tracks back to the suspension bridge you'll remember from the way in, and back to Lukla.
Day 19- Fly to Kathmandu
We'll be aiming for an early flight out of Lukla and back to Kathmandu for a last afternoon and evening to explore further, pick up some souvenirs or to just enjoy the Shanker's great gardens.
Day 20- Depart Kathmandu
We'll transfer you to the airport for your flight back home. SERVICE INCLUDES
- Conservation/national park fees and all govt. taxes
- Climbing peak permit of Lobuche Peak
- Hotel in Kathmandu (***)on twin sharing bed and breakfast basis
- Airport Pick & Drop.
- An Experience head Sardar/Guide
- Trained Cook and Kitchen boy(s)
- Required number of porters
- Accommodation at tented camp.
- High quality tents two men tent with sleeping mattress (All climbing gears if any requirements.)
- Group dinning tents with table and chairs
- Kitchen tents and Toilet tent
- EPI gas with stove for high camp
- All meals quality and hygienic (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- All hot drinks (tea, coffee, hot chocolate, juice)
- Available high altitude food
- All necessary Climbing hardware gears including Climbing ropes
- Complete first aid kits
- Oxygen with mask and regulator for emergency/medical purpose
- Insurance of all local team members
- Equipment for porters
- Half day world heritage sites tour
- Cultural celebration meal (Nepalese finest cuisine)
- Medical/personal high risk insurance (suggest have rescue coverage policy as well)
- International airfares and departure tax
- Personal climbing gears
- Major meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara
- Cost of personal expenses
- Gratitude (tip) for staff
Running shoes: For travel and easy walking
Sport sandal: That can be worn with socks. (Teva, Chaco)
Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a Vibram sole.
Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended. (Vasque, Koflach, Scarpa)
Booties: Synthetic or down isulation. Any brand with thick foam soles.
Lightweight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Mid-weight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight long underwear tops: Zip-T neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Mid-weight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear. (Patagonia Capilene)
Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, or any brand of PowerDry)
Jacket, synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardwear Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
Down insulated jacket: Expedition weight with a hood. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
Waterproof breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have a hood, pants must have full-length side zips. (Arc'Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Head & Hand Gear:
Liner gloves: Lightweight synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
Gore-Tex Mittens w/ pile liners: Expedition weight liner for the first pair, second pair should have a light weight pile liner. (Outdoor Research)
Bandana: Two to three traditional cotton style.
Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
Sunglasses #1: For high altitude. 1 pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction, side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not recommended, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.
Sunglasses #2: One pair high quality 100%UV and 100%IR, for lower elevations, also as a backup. It is important to have a spare pair of sunglasses.
Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
Gaiters w/reinforced lowers: Short, simple gaiters are best, such as Outdoor Research's Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.
Headlamp w/spare bulb: (Petzl, Black Diamond)
Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people but it does depend on your height. Shaft should be straight, not curved. You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one. (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel, Black Diamond)
Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off. It should be lightweight and fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners) (Black Diamond, Petzl, Clog)
Prussik cord: 20 feet of 6mm perlon which is also known as static accessory cord.(don’t cut it, bring in one piece)
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Backpack: 5000 cubic inches (80 liters) or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (Gregory, North Face, Dana, Arc’Teryx)
Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and for while touring in cities. (Black Diamond, Lowe)
Sleeping bag: Expedition quality rated to at least minus 20F (-25C) ((Marmot, North Face, Moonstone)
Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
Water bottles: Two 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth. (Nalgene, Lexan)
Lightweight steel thermal bottle: (Zojirushi, Nissan, Outdoor Research)
Pee bottle: One 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene, Lexan)
Pee funnel for women: (Freshette)
Pack towel: Small or medium size. Do not bring “terrycloth”, bandanas work in a pinch. (PackTowl)
Trekking poles: Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten. (Leki, Black Diamond)
Swiss army knife: Remember not to leave in carry-on bags for any international or domestic flight.
Large mug, plastic bowl, Lexan fork and spoon: lightweight metal is ok. (MSR)
Medical & Personal:
Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
Toiletry kit: toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small)
First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor. (antibiotics, Diamox, sleep aids)
Zip-loc bags: Always useful
Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
Water purification tablets: Such as Potable Aqua brand iodine tablets. You will be given plenty of purified water during your trek and climb, but one bottle of backup purification tablets is always a good idea for your travels. They are especially useful in hotels on you way to Nepal. You should not drink untreated tap water anywhere in Asia and bottled water in some rare cases might not be available.
Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches (130+ liter). Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”)
Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry-on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “carry-on”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling. (Outdoor Research)
Long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable
Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: 1 pair (any brand of Supplex short)
Lightweight pants: One pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pant)
City clothes for Kathmandu and Bangkok: Casual, one or two changes. Kathmandu is warm in the daytime, cool in the evenings. If you stay in Bangkok it is hot and ropical.
Small padlocks: for locking duffel bag(s)
Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non-rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. Be sure to keep in your carry-on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected at airports. If you bring a digital camera, bring extra media storage cards.